Audemars Piguet’s “Last Minute Release” aka Code 11:59

Audemars Piguet’s new “code 11:59” collection was all the rage at SIHH 2019.

Lets admit, Audemars Piguet was stagnating creatively. While Royal Oak remains a status icon amongst rich people, the hardcore horology enthusiasts have gotten bored with it. Royal Oak has seen realtively little change since its inception almost 50 years ago. New colour schemes and derivatives once every couple of years cannot satisfy anymore. In fact, the attention of watch lovers switched to new and exciting models from FP Journe, A. Lange & Sohne, H Moser, and Kari Voutilainen. Losing this demographic is more than dangerous. Hence, Code 11:59 has a timely arrival. Last minute, perhaps. I wonder if AP's intention of the name was anywhere close to mine.

According to AP Code 11.59 stands for:

Challenge the limits of craftsmanship

Own – our roots and legacy

Dare – to follow firm convictions

Evolve – to never stand still

11:59 – The last minute before a new day

I like my version of the name better. Code 11:59 does not roll off the tongue. I can see it being shortened to the simple “1159” in the future. My wife, who is a marketing professional, thought the collection name and meaning was clever, strong, and hopeful.

Well, lets look at the line up and see if the fashionably late Code 11.59 arrived with a bang.

The line up includes self winding three hander, flyback chronograph, automatic flying tourbillon, minute repeater, hand wound open tourbillon, and perpetual calendar. On top of it, with the exception of perpetual calendar, each model comes with a brand new Audemars Piguet caliber to match. Impressive! The size is standard across the board with 41mm diameter. Very smart choice as 41 is a modern size but is not too large.

The case design is where the models really shine. The familiar octagonal pattern rests in the middle part of the three tier case. The lugs are open and are attached to the bezel. The profile of the case is unmistakeably new, complex and refreshing. It took me a few days to get used to the new case design, but when I did, I couldn’t get enough of it. The dials are simple, yet refined with a recognizable look. I feel that the simplicity of the dials balance well with complexity of the case lines. If the dials had more going, the overall elegance and class would have been compromised. I can see many people looking at the dials and being disappointed with simplicity upon first look. The watch as a whole is a composition of design. One has to see it from all sides to fully appreciate it.

Few words about each model:

The self winding version is a three hander with a new caliber 4302, lacquered dial, and a 18k gold case.

The chronograph is a big deal. It is the first time that Audemars Piguet's own caliber is powering their chronograph. Cal 4401 is an integrated column wheel three register flyback chronograph that is modern and extremely good looking. The hollow rotor provides a better view and is a nice touch. The dial is lacquered with applied indices and logo.

The self winding tourbillon houses the new flying tourbillon caliber 2950. The dial is a beautiful grand feu enamel.

Supersonnerie is a minute repeater with a hand wound caliber 2953, blue fumé enamel dial and small seconds at 6.

Open tourbillon, with skeletonized hand wind caliber 2948 with blacked out bridges and main plate

And last but not least, the perpetual calendar with movement 5134. The dial is adorned with star like finish creating a night sky effect that harmonizes well with tthe moon phase at 6.

In conclusion, I must say: “Audemars Piguet, I get it! I love it!”. Of course, time will tell if we have a future classic on our hands. But based on my impression, the collection grows on you slowly every time you look at it. I feel that Audemars Piguet has to be really smart about marketing here. People have to see it often enough to notice new nuances, but not overdo it to kill any desire to look at it again. I believe this collection will mature and blossom in 5 to 10 years from now. Perhaps, it’s for the better. In the industry of annual budgets and sales reports, there is someone who works hard on their long term game.