The best mechanical chronographs under $4000 available in 2019
It’s hard to resist the allure of a mechanical chronograph. The looks, the sub dials, the pushers… The idea of a precise measurement of time intervals… The mechanical engineering prowess of generations of watchmakers who passed down their knowledge distilling it into what modern chronograph became 50 years ago. Producing chronographs is a prestigious mark for a watch brand. While some brands strive to manufacture their own movements, others are comfortable to use the proven mass-produced ones.
There are numerous chronographs with pedigree and history. Once you get into $5000+ category, the offerings are plenty and often not as hard to navigate. Whether it’s Zenith El Primero, Breitling Navitimer, Omega Speedmaster, Heuer Autavia, or Rolex Daytona, just to name a few, one will sure call your name. They all offer great quality in their take on the complication, and disappointment is highly unlikely. The hardest part, in my opinion, is navigating waters in the sub $4000 category. Finding value-for-money gems is a much trickier task that requires a certain level of horological and technical knowledge. Most chronographs in this segment will be using the same few mass-produced movements and deeper digging is required to understand what sets one above the other.
ETA/Valjoux is inexpensive, relatively reliable, and the easiest to service. A top grade Valjoux 7750 is a venerable machine capable of keeping chronometer grade accuracy. Expect to see this movement in most chronographs of the entry level.
With all of the above in mind, lets get to it! Here is a guide to mechanical chronographs that are a head above others in a sub $4000 retail price category available to buy new in 2019.
1. Sinn 103
This classic Sinn, tracing its lineage from cockpit clocks, was first released in the sixties. This has to be the longest running model of the brand. The classic pilot styling and functionality puts it together with other classics like Type XX Breguet or Breitling AVI.
The modern iteration has a few variations and I’ll touch on two. The classic stainless steel version with acrylic crystal is a nod to the original release. Powered by top grade Valjoux 7750, it has lumed arabic numerals and syringe hands, bi directional pilot bezel, and a comfortable 41mm diameter. It’s a great package for the price ($2185 on a bracelet) with some serious heritage and watch enthusiast approval.
If you want to take it up a notch, there is a DIAPAL version that offers some of Sinn’s top proprietary technology such as dry escapement, argon gas filling with copper sulphate indicator (displaces moisture in the movement for increased longevity of the oil), second time zone, screwed down pushers, and sapphire crystal. This watch packs a value punch at $3800 with downsides being a rather thick profile of 17mm compared to classic 103 at 15.5mm, as well as service carried out exclusively at Sinn shop in Germany due to all the proprietary technology.
2. Longines Avigation Big Eye
This chronograph oozes vintage feel. It is a resurrection of a Longines pilot watch from the 30’s that Longines themselves never knew existed until it was brought in to their shop. The styling is classic pilot with luminous Arabic numerals and larger Big Eye minute sub dial that adds spice and asymmetry to the face. Lack of date allows for no distractions.
Longines is a part of Swatch group that also includes the aforementioned ETA movement producer. To set Longines chronograph offerings apart, ETA manufactures an exclusive movement (cal L688) for Longines based on Valjoux 7750 but with a classic horizontal sub dial layout and column wheel operation in contrast to the usual cam operation.
Column wheel is a desirable mechanical feature in a chronograph making the pusher operation smoother and less prone to wear at the same time. Column wheel movements are usually found in more expensive in house manufactured movements (ie Rolex 4130, Breitling B01, Zenith El Primero, Heuer cal 02). Expect slightly higher service costs for this movement compared to 7750.
3. Damasko DC 66 Si
Back to German engineering… Damasko is the main Sinn competitor and this offering has many proprietary technologies putting it head to head with coming from Sinn. The base caliber is the usual suspect, Valjoux 7750, but the balance spring is made from silicone and manufactured in house by Damasko. Silicone is less prone to shocks and temperature fluctuations as well magnetism, making the heart of the watch increasingly more robust. On top of this, Damasko advertise this version as adjusted in 5 positions (same as Chronometer standard).
The watch is enclosed in anti magnetic cage further protecting from harmful magnetic sources, and the surface is ice hardened making the steel four times harder than the average steel used in watch manufacturing. Expect it to look close to new after many years of use. All of that for a mere $2900 on leather, $3500 on bracelet (also hardened). The disadvantages are relatively weak lume and proprietary technologies that require service in Damasko shop in Germany.
4. Oris Divers 65 Bucherer Blue Editions Chronograph
Lets get back into some more vintage styling with this beautiful Oris. This is a Diver style chronograph from an already popular Divers 65 line. The previous Bronze model dedicated to Carl Brashear was a huge hit and I don’t see why this edition wouldn’t be one as well.
Domed sapphire crystal, bi compax sub dial arrangement of a slightly modified and assembled Sellita 510 by Oris. Sellita 510 is based on expired patents of ETA/Valjoux 7750.
Vintage style lume and no date add to the symmetry and simplicity of the dial. The dark blue and yellow make for an impressive combination accentuated by the steel case. This chronograph is a looker! It is bound to turn heads. The finish is fantastic and luxurious. The yellow lume is a bit weak as usually expected from “old radium” SuperLuminova, and the watch profile is rather thick at 17mm. However, 2 -3 mm of the overall thickness owe it to the domed crystal. After trying it on I can say that It doesn’t feel bulky on the wrist at all.
5. Tissot 1973 Heritage Chronograph
Another looker! Racing chronographs are all the rage now with a lot of 70’s designs back in fashion. Bulky pillow cases with colourful dials are very desirable among enthusiasts. Tissot has a great heritage overshadowed by uninteresting and often basic releases due to their bottom placement in Swatch hierarchy.
The movement is a basic 7753 with a horizontal sub dial placement but the design choices and colours scream “cool”. There is a reason why Tag offerings are not on this list. The “Biver look”(those PVD skeleton watches that all look the same) is highly unappealing to the tastes of the author of this article. The good-looking Tag models such as Monaco and Heritage Carrera unfortunately use an unreliable ETA 2892 with a Dubois Dupraz module combination that is a nightmare to service. Looking at Tags? Love racing chronographs? Stop trying to impress other people! Do yourself a favour and get this fun watch instead. It’s totally worth the $2100 retail.
6. Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope
I must start including dress chronographs on this list, I suppose. While I usually find elegant chronographs rather dull, this offering has many merits in the style and technical departments. The design was conceived by a Bauhaus school guru Max Bill in the 50’s. The numerals, the lines and simple colour combination are all marks of a design genius and will work virtually with anything smart casual or elegant. The case itself is very rounded from every angle. The domed plexi glass and domed case back allow it to appear very thin, and it is relatively thin at 14.4mm. The modified Valjoux 7750 lacks the small second hand at 9, making for a concise streamlined appearance. The movement also sports an upgraded anti shock and balance wheel. The watch oozes style and class for $1800! Yes, that’s right! This is the most inexpensive watch on the list!
7. Hanhart Pioneer Valjoux 23
As I am typing this, I realize the Germans dominate this list. This offering is much more unusual, however. Hanhart is a famous chronograph manufacturer with heritage tracing back to 1882. While any Pioneer model could make this list, I chose this very special Valjoux 23 limited edition. Hanhart found 100 Valjoux 23 movements somewhere on the shelf in their warehouse.
Valjoux 23 is the same movement that powered many legendary chronographs by Rolex, Enicar, and Heuer in the 60’s - 70’s. This is when Valjoux was an independent movement manufacturer. So 100 of these new old stock Valjouxs 23 were found and modified by Hanhart with Flyback function (the lower pusher resets the chronograph without stopping the time running) and fit it into slim 12.5mm, 40mm diameter, DLC Pioneer cases.
Manual wind chronograph with legendary column wheel movement in a modern case with sapphire crystal? Sign me up. This amazing release from a small German manufacturer is available exclusively through WatchBuys at a reasonable price of $3860. Great collectible value and a distinct design used by German Luftwaffe and later copied by Poljot Russian watch line Buran.
8. Seiko SRQ023 Presage
I really felt the need to include a watch with a movement that is not Valjoux or not based on Valjoux in any way. Seiko is always around proving it can singlehandedly compete with the whole Swiss watch industry. Cal 8R48 is a column wheel vertical clutch chronograph technically superior to any modern Valjoux 775X series offering. While Seiko never bothers to decorate the movement, the function is where it excels.
And this is not even the most impressive part of the watch! The dial is a beautiful fired white enamel made in house by Seiko. Enough said. The cosmetic details and finish are truly impressive! The value ($2400) is hands down the best on the list. A watch of this quality coming from Switzerland would have at least a two-fold price tag. You are welcome! Now, who else wants to see mechanical sports chronographs from Seiko? I can only imagine the furor of such release!